Instrument Cluster Bezel Upgrade

I had a lot of water stain like spots on my lens that would not come off (SEE NEW NOTE, BELOW)- looked terrible. Well, my solution was to spend $39 and replace it with a silver (pewter) colored bezel, with lens, from Performance Parts, Inc. The item is listed as being for a '99 model: a " Mustang 35th Anniversary Dash Bezel and Lens." I sent them an E-mail, and it was a direct swap, for '94 - '03 mustangs.

Here I am, one year after changing the lens & bezel ... the main reason for changing it being that I couldn't get the water-like spots off of the lens. Well, after finding a compound that would remove the haze from my headlights, I decided to try some of it on the old bezel lens! Guess what? The spots left town, and the lens looked brand new! I sold it to a Cobra owner in the SVT Performance forums.

If you merely want to get the lens clean, I used "Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish." Rub it in with a clean, soft cloth, and then buff it off with a clean, soft cloth. I'd try to keep it off the surrounding area, cause it may affect the color. Mine was already removed, so it was relatively simple.

This is a 1 1/2 - 2 hour job. It's actually quite simple, but then again ... be careful of the lens - you don't want to leave marks on it [inside or outside]. You're working with that dreaded "plastic," so don't over-torque the screws.

This is a silver (pewter) colored bezel, with lens, from Performance Parts, Inc.

The cost is $39.99 + $9.00 shipping. My SVT dealer wanted $57.00 + 10 days waiting, for a stock bezel & lens.

If you want to do this upgrade, go to: http://www.corral.net/tech/interior/bezel.html This LINK will take you to a Corral Tech article, with step-by-step instructions/tips, and LINKs to excellent pictures of the upgrade process. Takes about 1 1/2 - 2 hours.

As you will see, I'm detail oriented. I want you to benefit from my #**%# learning experience!

I had taken my instrument cluster out once before, to troubleshoot a sticking speedometer, so I had a little experience [which saved some time doing the upgrade].

Check All Of The Warning Bulbs In The Instrument Cluster - If They Are Not Working, You'll Have Your Chance To Replace Them!

Disconnect Battery Terminals (+ & -) You Don't Want The Air Bag Getting In Your Face ...

Removing Bezel From Dash

Step 1

must44.jpg (33102 bytes)

** There was a lot of glare is this photo, but you can see the cluster okay. This view is from the driver's seat.

1. Remove headlight switch knob [this has taken different people anywhere from 30 min to 1 hour!]. Pull switch out all the way. Turn the shaft until you can see a slot in the side of the knob shaft. Using a paperclip with a small hook bent on one end, insert into the slot and gently try to pull up on the small spring clip that's on the switch shaft. When you relieve the spring tension, you can pull out on the knob [gently], and it should come right off! The repair manual says to push down on the clip with a small screwdriver! Try my way first. You may be able to see into the slot and determine which method to use. Here are some real close-up photos provided by "UPR Products" that you can look at - it's in PDF format - click on this LINK

2. Remove outer bezel retaining assembly secured to dash with two Torx screws.

3. Remove four Torx screws from cluster/bezel assembly. One in each outer corner - top and bottom (don't bother with the eight screws in the center).

4. Tilt the cluster/bezel assembly out, from the bottom, and work the assembly out as far as possible.

5. Reach behind and carefully [continuity between the connectors and the assembly is made by the connector sliding along printer circuit paper to make it's connection - no male/female connection] disconnect two electrical connectors. On the top of each connector, there is a small tab - just push down on it with your finger, while pulling out! No screwdriver needed!

6. Remove cluster/bezel assembly with care - printed circuit material is all over the back of it!!

Cavity - Two (2) Electrical Connectors

Step 2

must49.jpg (38309 bytes)

1. It should now look like this. You're got it made now [until it's time to re-connect the electrical leads! If you know of any burned-out bulbs, now is the time to replace them, while you have it on the bench.

NOTE: During re-installation, I put a small rag over the top edges of the bezel lens, to keep from scratching it (#**&#). It will pull right out after you have inserted the assembly back into place.

Bezel Removed - Remove Lens

Step 3

must46.jpg (52680 bytes)

1. Remove the eight Torx screws holding the lens onto the bezel assembly.

2. Slowly remove the lens, trying not to catch any of the gauge pointers.

3. Carefully clean the face of the cluster - don't disturb the gauges.

Back Of Instrument Cluster

Step 4

must50.jpg (48841 bytes)

1. Replace any burned-out bulbs

Trip Meter Operation

** Important, New Information ** (Mar 14, 2004)

My thanks to Kerry (from Rossburg, Ohio), AKA "1QIK-SNK,"

On The SVT Performance Forum, For Passing On This Information To Me ...

At this point, compare the old bezel and the new one.

On the end of the reset button (see photos of old & new, below), there is a flat surface that contacts the trip meter to reset it. On the stock '95 (and I don't know how many other years are the same, so you need to compare the two bezels), that flat portion on the end of the reset button sits "flush" against the bezel, and on the Anniversary model bezel, there is a plastic collar built in to the housing that the button shaft slides through ... that flat end of the reset button rests on the collar - this is actually keeping the button shaft from retracting ALL the way. So, it is in the reset position all the time, and the trip meter will not work. I cut the collar off, so it was nearly flush with the back of the bezel. It wasn't easy, but you can do it. Be careful not to use too much pressure cutting it off, or you may crack or break the housing that the button shaft slides through! I used side-cutters to get the big portion of the collar off, then trimmed it down as flush as possible with a razor cutter. I used some dry compressed air in a can (for cleaning computer & electrical components) to blow out and debris that went inside the lens.

This is the new bezel - you can see that the distance the button sticks out is different (less) from the stock bezel

The top bezel is the stock one, and the bottom bezel is the Anniversary bezel. You can see that the top one is flush, and the bottom one is resting on that collar.

The wide slots at the top left & right are where the two connectors plug in (no kidding ...)

I cleaned them with isopropyl rubbingl alcohol & cotton swabs, to remove any minor residue.

New Bezel Installed

Step 5

must47.jpg (42164 bytes)

Install new bezel onto cluster, avoiding touching with the gauge pointers.

NOTE 1: Make sure to test the trip reset button. I pushed mine in, to make sure it reset the trip mileage.

NOTE 2: (First day after install - trip meter doesn't turn! Sure, it reset okay, but the next day's drive didn't register any mileage!

Now, about a year later, I get educated on removing the collar of the reset plunger on the back of the bezel!!! (WTF) It works fine, now ...

Cluster and New Bezel In Place For Test

Step 6 (This Is It)

must48.jpg (46026 bytes)

1. Place a clean rag over the top areas of the lens, to avoid scratches.

2. Place cluster back into dash, and reach behind to re-connect the electrical connectors.

3. You're pushing the connector into a circuit paper covered slot, so go in carefully - when the connector is seated all the way, the little tab should pop back up, showing that it's locked.

4. Connect the battery and perform a test of all the functions of the cluster before you continue.

5. Disconnect battery again (air bag).

6. Fully install cluster, with four screws. Pull headlight switch all the way out! Install the outer bezel assembly with two screws. Install knob back onto headlight switch shaft. Align the triangle shaped hole with the flat on the shaft, and push the knob back onto the shaft. The spring clip will lock it into place. Test it by pulling out on the knob a few times.

7. Connect the battery.

8. You're done - hopefully without any damage. I managed to scratch the outer bezel assembly with a screwdriver, when I was trying to remove the *#$**# knob!

I started having a problem with my Temperature Gauge indications.The reading on the gauge seems to rise & fall one full letter (in the word -NORMAL),when the lights are turned ON & OFF. When ON, the temp reads a full letter higher! The other gauges seemed to be off quite a bit also. This was fixed (Nov, '03) by repairing the battery NEG cable, where it attaches to the engine. It was loose, and corroded. I installed a temporary cable, and attached it to the front of the engine, where it's easy to get to, and all of the gauges started reading normally. Next time I have the radiator out, I'll clean and tighten the OEM battery cable connection at the engine.

My speedometer is a little eratic sometimes also - the speed will rise and fall drastically, on it's own. Tapping the top of the dash, or lightly on the bezel lens makes it return to normal. This only happens on a random basis!

NOTE (Nov, 2004): Several months ago, my speedometer finally left town! The needle started rising, and went all the way to the "peg." It has stayed there, on the wrong side of the peg. I have located a repair company in Virginia that will completely repair it and anything else they find wrong, for $190 (parts, labor and freight) Southern Electronics. Now, it's a matter of being able to afford it.