pool.htm

Banking geometry, the stop shot, draw, and running object ball down the rail.

are available to the general public thru association with highly skilled, and professional

pool players - the information is not new. If you watch the old "Billiards Classics,"

on ESPN, you'll notice that a lot of the favorite shots and methods of ball control used now

days seem to be different than what you see on the old "Classics," only in the technical

application of the shot. The current professional 9-Ball matches seen on television ... they use a lot

of technical ball control ... seemingly much more accurate than what you'll see in the "Classics."

The professional instructor that I had associated with consented to my using the information

he taught to me. The late Eddie Loest lived in San Antonio, Texas, and was a highly skilled

professional instructor. Prior to his death, Eddie charged a fee for his services. It was money well spent.

(from "The Hustler" fame), setting up demonstrations and clinics for the general public.

After Eddie Parker's death, he was buried in a cemetery on the Northeast side of San Antonio, Texas.

His grave marker reads: "Parker, Edward R. Jun 2, 1931 - Feb 2, 2001." His wife's space is reserved.

NEW (22 Dec '07) Eddie Loest died at his home, in San Antonio, on 15 December 2007. He had been quite ill for a long time.

Myself, and a lot of players who associated and played pool with Eddie will miss him.

Pool Tip #1: 4 Quick Easy Shots To Immediately Improve Your Billiards Skills

I am going to give you information on how to make a big change in your pool playing skills. All you have to do is practice the steps that I'll give to you!

Several of my friends have their own billiard tables, so it's very easy for us to practice our skills. If you don't have your own table, talk with your local billliard parlors - there may be some days when you can play for free!

Assuming that your stroke has already been developed, you don't want to waste your time just shooting balls around the table, thinking that you are practicing. Practice shooting set-up shots that will give you specific results. During the course of three or four games, you'll be surprised at how many of these shots will present themselves to you, and when you make the shots, it will become very quiet around the pool table area, and then your opponent and audience will be standing around wide-eyed and smiling at you! This I promise you!

If your stroke hasn't been developed, or needs some help, I'll be talking about that, too.

Following, are 4 different shots you need to practice. These initial learning steps will improve your game; however, practice is required. These skills do not come out of the blue. With a moderate practice schedule, there will be a noticeable and obvious change to your outlook on billiards, and your skills. These tips will also start an arsenal of tools for playing billiards ... CLICK on the following LINKs to view each shot, one at a time:

Following, are Figures and the information for using the Diamond System, and the Lineup System (masterminded by the real Fast Eddie (Edward Parker). There are 7 different Figures for shooting multiple rail shots, and several pages of text, explaining how to use the Figures. After studying the Figures and information, and with practice, you'll be making eye-popping 2, 3, 4, and even 5-rail shots that will rattle your opponent. As you already know, I'm sure, those little ivory circles or diamonds on all of the rails are not there for decoration - they were put there to assist you in making predetermined rebounds with the cue ball, into a second or more rails, contacting or pocketing an object ball. This will work in 8-Ball or 9-Ball. After a while, you will come to remember the path the cue ball will take on any given rail shot - going right through the middle of other object balls on the table and pocketing a desired object ball. It's rewarding and exciting to make such shots. They don't necessarily present themselves in every game, but when they do come up, you'll be ready, and your opponent will wonder, "what happened?"

These two (2) items are put on E-Bay frequently. During that period, I may or may not make their LINKs inactive.

Okay, that's over ... now let's test your knowledge on how to position the cue ball for the next shot.

1. If you hit the cue ball with left hand spin (english), why doesn't it spin off to the left after striking object ball?

Answer: The spin (english) put on the cue ball doesn't take effect until the cue ball hits the rail. The harder you strike the cue ball, the greater the angle of the cue ball when it comes off the rail.

#1 In 8-Ball, or 9-Ball, what is the shot that you dread the very most - the shot that you know you are

shot (until today) was having the cue ball kissed-up in front of any ball on the table, and having to

get "jacked-up" over the blocking ball in order to hit the cue ball, and consequently hitting or pocketing the

object ball! Does that sound about right? If you're not careful, you'll touch the blocking ball with

the cue tip (that's a foul). If you play it too safe, and come across the blocking ball too high,

you are probably going to miscue (very likely end up being a foul). Again, I'll ask you,

"does that sound about right?" I know what your answer is ... try this solution the very next time

you get on a table - before you forget about it! The solution is similar to making a jump shot.

Visually line up your shot, from the cue ball to the contact point on the object ball. Determine how hard

you are going to shoot the cue ball. Lock that information into your mind, and line-up your shot! From that point on

don't look at the object ball again until after you have hit the cue ball! Keep your eye

on the cue ball - exactly where you are going to hit it, and concentrate on safely getting the most cue tip surface

you can, on the cue ball! Today, while practicing for tomorrow's 9-Ball Tournament, this solution

came to me like a lightning bolt. Time after time, I was jacked-up over a blocking ball, and made

my shot - as planned! It's so simple, I wonder why so many players that I see are having trouble

with it. They won't any more ... that will be some of that "free advice" you hear about, among friends.

This solution isn't some earth-shaking realization, but it has solved a problem I've been having

#2 Here's another shot that's kind of scary, and may be causing you problems. Assume that your object

ball is close to an open corner pocket, and is near a rail, and that another ball is blocking a clear

shot to your object ball, and there is enough room for the cue ball to pass behind the blocking ball - you are

going to have to hit the rail first (no kidding)! Aim the object ball to the center of the pocket, and remember

the contact point on the object ball that will pocket it. Measure the distance from the contact point on

the object ball, straight to the edge of the rail cushion. Now, from that point on the cushion, measure that same

distance straight out onto the top of the cushion, or rail, and make an imaginary mark at the exact location of the

end of that measurement. Aim the cue ball through the cushion / rail, and hit the cue ball in the center, with no English,

towards your imaginary mark! Hit it hard enough to make your shot. If you want the cue ball to

end up somewhere down-table, you'll have to compromise on how hard to hit the cue ball. The table

lighting is a major factor when trying to aim at a certain point on the rail - it's hard to see!

It's illegal, according to BCA Rules, to make a mark on the table or rail, and use it as an aiming point,

and it's also illegal to use anything other than your cue, to make measurements. Using your fingers and your

hand seems to be accepted, the way I read the rules. If you have any questions and want to

play it safe, just ask your opponent, or an Official, before you make the measurement!

Again, it's so simple - all you have to do is be able to make a simple measurement.

By all means. The tip you choose to use, either after you replace the original tip, or if you decide on a different brand of tip, a little knowledge & advice can make some difference. Of course, all manufacturers say they have the best tip on the market ... so, what do you do? Look at other players that are much more skilled than yourself, and find out what tip they are using. There are a lot of tips for sale - most of them are layered leather, and the price can vary also. The size, in mm's, and the hardness are other factors. The size needs to match the size of your ferrule, or a little wider, and then trim it to the same diameter. Some tips are sold individually, in sets of three or four, by the dozen, etc. You can spend $15 or more for one tip, so you need to have a reason for buying that particular brand! That's where the experience & advice comes in. If the person you ask for advice doesn't even know what brand of tip he's using, it might be a good idea not to try and get any other kind of advice from him (her). Obviously, the player isn't serious about his shooting, and the tools that are available to make him a better player.

I'll go out on a limb, and say that the Le Professoinal (Le Pro), is one of the more commonly used tips, among the players I compete with. I also see the Le Pro tip come standard on many cue sticks. I haven't used any other brands yet, but I plan on trying some of the exotic leather tips. Anything that walks on four legs probably has a brand of tip made from it's hide! I haven't seen any "mouse tips" yet.

Once you have a tip selected, whether it came on your cuestick, or otherwise, you need to care for it. You can slam the balls around the table with any brand of tip, but to gain control and finesse over your shots, you need to make a good surface on the tip, for maximum contact with the surface of the cueball. There are dozens of tip tools on the market for scuffing, poking holes in, and shaping or trimming the tip. They all work, but with differing results. Sandpaper, or a file will work also. What you want to do is get a surface on the tip that is rough, and able to retain the chalk as you apply it, before each shot, to grip the cueball. If the place you play pool at doesn't have a brand name of chalk, or doesn't have enough chalk on the tables, consider buying a box (12 pieces) of your own chalk, from a local dealer, E-Bay, or elsewhere, for $3 or $4. I use Master chalk, and like it. I have used Balabushka chalk, but it's nearly impossible to get any longer (why - because the manufacturer quite making it). I see boxes of it on E-Bay quite often, being sold from the United Kingdom, but a winnng bid in excess of $60 isn't uncommon (for 12 cubes of chalk) - the average bidder just drops out. The bidding, I believe, could go over $90. My League Director, and friend, let me use one of his cubes of Balabushka chalk one night, and I was really impressed. It doesn't leave a lot of dust on the table, in your hand, in your pocket or on the cueball - it's very clean, and It holds onto the cueball - I didn't even come close to a miscue all night. He feels that $50 per cube would be possible! He uses each cube until it doesn't even look like a piece of chalk any longer! You don't need to grind half a cube of chalk each time you use it - just a couple of swipes across the tip, in an arc-type pattern. The top of the tip needs to be shaped in a nickle or dime shaped arc. By using one or more of the many tools on the market, you can sand, cut, or trim the tip to where it's the proper shape. The least expensive way would be using sandpaper, of different grits, finishing with a fine grit. Cue tips do wear down, and tend to mushroom from continuously striking the cueball. You need to take care of the tip during games ... using a tip tapper, a Tip Pik, sandpaper, a trimmer/shaper (Porper tool), or whatever other type tools you have bought! With a properly shaped & prepared tip, you can shoot lower on the cueball without miscues! You'll have greater control over the cueball, and your self confidence will grow. Many players I've met will not even attempt to apply draw to a cueball ... they are afraid they may miscue, or even jump the cueball off the table. These same people do not take care of their cue tip before or during a game. They just seem to let the chips fall as they may. Needless to say, their skill level will not change much - sure, they will pocket balls, and win games, but they will likely never develop ball control well enough to know approximately where the cueball is going to end up after the shot!

Here are some valuable words from Roy Yamane - MASTER BCA Certified Instructor. He has written articles on matters such as this. "The cue tip is the only part that contacts the cue ball and the roundness of the tip should be shaped for maximum area contact ... approximately the radius of a nickel's edge. Compare the curvature of your cue tip to the roundness of a nickel, by placing it flat behind the ferrule. Some like it more rounded (like a penny or dime size,) or flatter (like a quarter.) At impact, the flatness or roundness will determine how surface area contact will prevent miscues."

Well, we've talked about the cue tip for quite a while. I could go on longer, but I hope you got a little understanding of how important cue tip care is. This is just one small aspect of your pool game ... and, it's the smallest part of your cuestick!

8 January '08: Since writing this, I have changed my playing tips to Elk Master. Tips are a personal preference, but I derived a better feel from my shots, and could feel a lot more ball control on soft hits - enough to easily count the revolutions of my red-dotted cue ball. The Elk Master seems to wear a lot more than the Le Pro - when trimming with a razor equipped tool, or hitting it with a George tip tapper, it shortens the life of the tip. Just my opinion! There are many tips that I haven't tried yet.

You don't have to kill the cue ball every time you shoot. Hitting the cue ball harder than required will only increase your chance of missing the shot, or cause a mis-cue. If you've ever watched the professionals play on television, you will recall that their strokes were smoothe, even, deliberate, and soft. For the most part, you'll never see a mis-cue by a professional.

1. Look the table over, and the lay of the balls, and then decide what type of bridge you are going to use. The bridge should be firm, and it should allow the shaft of your cue stick to move freely.

2. Make several practice strokes, stopping short of the cue ball. Get a feel for the shot. Don't act like you're trying to pump oil out of the ground, with a horizontal piston.

3. Once you decide on how you're going to make the shot, stay with the plan! If during the set up to make the shot, you decide that it doesn't feel right, stand up and back off - look the table over again, and then make your shot. Don't change your plans while you're bent over the table.

4. Keep the butt of your cue stick low, and even with the rail. If you need to change the elevaton of the cue-stick, move your bridge fingers in or out, to raise or lower your hand - don't change the elevation of the butt of the cue-stick unless absolutely necessary.

5. Once you have shot the cue ball, follow through with the stroke, and the end of the shaft should be over the spot where the cue ball used to be, pointing straight at the pocket. Don't pull up or jerk the stick up in the air after you stroke the cue ball. It may look cool, but it won't help.

The jump shot can be a deciding factor in whether or not you will stay at the table, or return to your seat and watch your opponent own the table. I'll probably write a "Tip" on the jump shot, soon, as I have become a true believer in the shot.

My League Director constantly makes accurate "ball making" jump shots. One night I asked him to try my Cuetec SST Jump/Break stick, because I hadn't been able to get the cue ball off the table. I had tried and tried, but nothing. He unscrewed the butt end of the stick, took it in his usual stance ... fired into the cue ball, and it skittered down the table. He tried it time and time again, but the ball wouldn't leave the table. It had a hard tip, but for some reason, it just wouldn't jump. He suggested getting a different tip, but didn't have a brand preference.

Looking around the Internet, and reading page after page on the advantage of buying one tip over another, I finally came across one brand that seemed to stand out above the others. Maybe it was because the company offered a full money back guarantee, if the buyer wasn't satisfied. "Just cut the tip off, and return it to us ... ," was what it said!

Well, I took the plunge and ordered their "Black" jump/break tip, and payed with PayPal. It came through the regular mail, in a soft pack, with instructions. The cost was $11.95, plus postage.

In a nutshell, here's what happened: when it arrived, I had a tournament that night, so I grabbed the cue case and headed for my favorite billiard retailer, and had the new tip installed for $5.00.

That night, I showed the new tip to my League Director and he said, "have you tried it yet?" Well, I took the butt off the stick, lined up a couple of balls, and the cue ball. I had the cue ball about 18" away from the ball I wanted to jump. I used my normal 30 to 45 degree hitting angle, made a few careful practice strokes, wondering if I had wasted my money, and then let the stroke go to the cue ball ... well, I didn't know whether to laugh, shout, swear, or what - the cue ball jumped off the table, right over the blocking ball, and gently landed back on the table! I was really happy, believe me! It worked perfectly! Now I am trying to refine my shot, for making balls, on my own table. It's coming easily - much easier than I thought it would be. On my third try, this morning, I made a ball at the far end of the table. I just had to adjust my aiming on the object ball.

Raven Custom Cues is the name of the company I bought the tip from. Their Internet Address is:

They have a great Web Site, with all the products you may want to buy. I had several E-Mails with them, and was pleased with their "customer care."

If you're having trouble with your jump stick, I'd recommend trying one of their tips. They have a "white," "black," and "green" jump tip. I believe they are the same price. It will be money well spent!

If you found this Web Page from an Ebay purchase, on improving your Billiards game, send me an E-Mail by clicking on the LINK below and tell me how you liked the information ...

Once you have visited this Web Page, you may return as often as you like - put it in your Favorites..

The price for each set of "Tips," (#1, #2, #3, #4, etc.) as they become available, may differ slightly - according to the size of the content and whether or not any materials or postage is involved. I have one new Web Page under construction right now, and hope to have it available in the near future.

(This total refers to my main, and associated Web Pages, not necessarily this page)