1) Remove the cover from the part of the motor
that has the mount bolt holes. It may be "staked-in," on the back side
(crimp in the cover), so you can pry on it a little, or carefully tap it off with a small
hammer & punch (this is cast metal, so be careful not to crack it!)
|
| 2) Remove the C-clip retainer & washer
from the shaft. The C-clip can easily be damaged beyond repair!
|
| 3) Remove the steel gear. There should
be 3 neophrene-like balls underneath the gear, sitting in the plastic plate (which is a
gear itself, driven by the motor worm gear)
|
| 4) If the balls are destroyed, replace them
and reassemble the motor. You can ask NAPA or Ford for a kit that possibly
contains just the parts you need. I used 7/16 or 1/2' flat nuts on mine. The
base of the steel gear has 3 indentations on it - one bearing (or nut) needs to align with
each indentation. It was kind of tricky getting the flats of the nuts to align
properly, for the gear to slide back into place. If the nuts are too small, the gear
will turn right on past the nuts; if the nuts/bearings are too thick, the steel gear won't
sit down all the way, and then the washer & C-clip won't seat all the way on the
shaft. The purpose of the bearings are to provide friction against the gear,
and "break" if too much resistance is met by the motor. By using nuts
instead of plastic bearings, you are removing that safety feature,
and the window tends to travel up a tiny bit too far, because there is no "give"
present from the plastic bearings. My window goes about 1/8" past where the
window tint stops, so I have to regulate the up travel, and not let it slam up to the top
and "cinch down." If this seems like too much trouble, I'd recommend
getting a kit with new plastic bearings.
"NOTE:"
I rec'd an E-Mail from a Cobra
owner who had looked at this page. He sent me the part numbers for the plastic balls
... they are real cheap. Here's what he had to say:
"Hi Dan, I just got through checking out your
power window repair article and figured I would let you know about a source for the nylon
bushings. The bushings, Part Number WLK-52, are available seperately in a
package of 3 from National Automotive Lines Inc, www.natauto.com
or 1-800-428-4300. Be prepared for the price though, they are a whopping $1.57 for a
3 pak.
I
have not found any application that they wont work on. Their is kind of a trick to install
though, they will seem too big. What you need to do is apply some grease to the gear body
and instead of dropping the bushings straight down into their respective slots use
the grease to keep the bushings (all three at once) suspended above their seats, and at an
angle outward, then just line up the gear on top of them then push, make
sure that everything is lined up and not binding then push like hell, or maybe use a
hammer of your choice to tap it down into place. Now you have a proper, quiet and safer
fix. Hope this helps, maybe you can pass this on to all your Ford friends, I was in
the auto parts for 30 years and never saw a source for these except National. The guys on
the toll free number are friendly, helpful and knowledgeable, heck they dont even act like
a bunch of yankees!
Hal (Kerrville, Texas)"
:
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5) Inspect the plastic plate that meshes with the
worm gear. If it's stripped, try to get a kit that includes a new plate
|
| 6) Clean all debris from the gear area,
lubricate the bearings (or nuts) with a heavy grease, install steel gear, washer and
C-clip. Install cover over gear, and lubricate the steel gear
|
| 7) Reinstall motor.
|
| 8) Slide the motor into place, and push the
elect connector up to it's hole. Lift motor into place, and rotate it slowly, to
aligh the teeth of both the steel gear, and the window lift mechanism arm. Look into
the hole and you'll see the arm that the gear has to mesh with. Hold the motor
against the arm and start all 3 mount bolts. If it feels flush, tighten the bolts
|
| 9) Connect battery |
| 10) Place door panel near the door, with one
end of it sticking up by the steering wheel, to support that end. Connect the motor and
door lock elect connectors. Turn key to a ACC, and do a quick power-on test of the
motor.
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| 11) Either disconnect battery
again, or continue reinstalling panel & trim parts.
|
| 12) Move door panel out of the
way, and re-insert all plastic trees you pulled out. Press water protection cover
back into place - make sure you push the plastic into the little pockets in the door,
so the catches will be able to go into place. Move door panel back into place
and hook-up all elect connectors (I had an unused round elect connector near the bottom of
the door - it must be for an optional OEM alarm system or something).
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| 13) Refer to photo of catches
along bottom of and in the center of door panel, lift into place, and insert door lock
shaft through it's opening on the panel, position catches into their pockets, and push in
and down. When you're sure all catches are in place (and the lock knob shaft is
through the hole), push down hard on the top of the panel. I hit it solidly all
along the top edge, and it dropped right into place. Try pulling out at the bottom
to make sure it's locked into place
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| 14) Replace the plastic plug on front edge of
panel, the 2 screws in the center of the panel, and the trim & speaker pieces.
You're done
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